Summer Pruning of Fruit Trees

Summer pruning of fruit trees – especially apples and pears – is quite possibly my favourite task in the garden at this time of year, as it’s not too physical in the current hot weather and it encourages a kind of meditative “flow” that is good for both mind and body

It is important to note that those fruit trees of the genus Prunus, such as plums, cherries, damsons etc, must only be pruned at this time of year, as this minimises the risk of exposure to a nasty fungal infection called “silver leaf”: There are fewer spores around when the weather is hot and dry and the pruning cuts heal faster. For Prunus the rule is to prune only when necessary to maintain a healthy plant, and ideally not at all: So, remove only the “3Ds” – Dead, Diseased or Damaged wood only, including any branches which are crossing and rubbing together. Use clean tools and wipe them down with a disinfectant afterwards

For apple and pear trees, the main aim of summer pruning is to expose the fruit to the sun, which encourages ripening. It also exposes the fattening buds which will create the fruiting spurs for next year’s crop – by this time of year these fat fruiting buds are easy to distinguish from the much smaller leaf buds. If your tree has developed long, whippy growth – and it probably has, usually vertically from the top – this should be cut back completely to the main stem. Then check whether your tree is “spur-bearing” or “tip-bearing”: i.e. do the fruit grow on short “spurs” which branch off along the main stems, or do they grow at the ends of the stems. If the latter, then leave well alone after you’ve removed all of the thin whippy growth or you’ll inadvertently remove next year’s fruiting buds… If spur-bearing, then you should cut back any side-shoots to within 3-4 buds of the main stem

Removal of dead, diseased and damaged wood from apple and pear trees is best left until the tree is dormant, between November and early-March, as this minimises the shock to the plant, though in extremis (for example removing a damaged branch after high winds) can be done when the tree is actively growing and in leaf. Similarly any “formative” pruning, carried out to achieve the preferred open “goblet” shape for free-standing fruit trees (see photo), is also best left until the dormant period

Hopefully this will give you the confidence to have a go at summer pruning your own apple and pear trees; however, if you live in the North Cotswolds and would prefer the experts to give your fruit trees some TLC then please contact us – Ian and Amanda at Brennan Smith Gardens – on 07818 722727, or e-mail through the website